Rwanda, post number 5 (March 25th-26th)

March 25, 2010; 15.10 CST

We built more shelves today: we have finished approximately nine sets, with one left to sand and two left to nail backing onto. We had to sand and nail the backing onto the three we did yesterday, but that didn’t take long. We did six today, and after sanding all the boards for two sets we decided to nail it all together and then sand (which is more sensible logistics-wise, if not the best for sanding quality) – the rhythm therefore goes pick boards, build, sand, backing. We’re pretty darn efficient if I do say so myself.

We were working in the sun this morning, and even though I slathered sunscreen onto my shoulders I ended up burning them slightly. Not a bad burn – not terribly painful in any case – and it should be gone in a few days if I keep treating it with moisturizer and sunscreen. Hopefully it will only be tan lines when I get back.

This afternoon was the grand opening of the Centre Cesar, and the whole ceremony took a good four hours … and we were there an hour and a half early. We got to the Centre at 14.30 (as the ceremonies were supposed to start at 14.00), but we didn’t get started until 15.30, and then we went until 19.30. Not the most fun of times, nor the most interesting – lots of people talked, including Maman Nicole, Igor, M. Raval, Léonie (the president of the Centre, a widow herself along with all the women on the board of directors), two local politicians (one very high up in the government) and one representative of a company that has supported the Centre since its inception in 2005. Most of the speeches were very similar, and all of them were translated either out of Kinyarwanda or into Kinyarwanda (for some reason the second language of choice was English – there must have been someone there who only spoke English, but I didn’t mind, as it meant I could zone out a little more and still listen), which meant they took twice as long … and no one spoke quickly or for a short amount of time.

The one person, the ombudsman (fourth in the chain of command, M. Raval said), Tito, had the best speech of them all – engaging, simple, clear, and he often translated for himself as he spoke very good English. He was far more personal in his speech than any of the others, going into open and earnest encouragement for Nicole, Marcelle, the widows, and even us. What really struck me about his speech, the other politician’s, and the businessman’s speeches was that all of them promised help (whether financial or through networking), and from the examples given or the timelines and history stated, it looks like those promises will be carried through. Maman Nicole and Léonie went on and on about the involvement of the government and the one company, mentioning how it was due much to them (and Marcelle) that the Centre was still going and could do as much as it could. It was interesting and a bit mind-bending for me to hear promises made that seemed like they would be kept, and were not just empty words – another thing I would like to bring back to Canada.

After supper (which was late, since the evening went so late), Roxanne and I had a good conversation for at least an hour about all and sundry, and that was good. I am very comfortable now, so I am going to do my devotions and then sleep early (wow). 435 pictures so far and my camera’s still going.

March 26, 2010; 15.21 CST

Today was more shelves. Apparently we are at a total of around sixty so far – that’s forty percent in three mornings’ work. Not bad at all. Each group is churning out 10 to 15 per day. I think we did either 11 or 13 today – and it would have been closer to 20, probably, if we had not had the help of the local kids. They’re wonderful help when it comes to sanding (one less thing we have to do, and they’re pretty good at it), but they very soon want to move to helping to build, and then a lot of our time is eaten up by telling them as nicely as we can not to nail here, or not to nail now … they’re very cute, but it’s difficult to get through to them, and they very much want to help (which is very nice of them), but we would be able to get our job done much better if they weren’t trying to help in that way. It’s hard not to feel sort of guilty when I say that, since it’s great that they want to help and that they’re so hardworking and willing to jump to a task – but as much as it’s great to make connections and show them as much love and patience as we can, we do need to get the work done. It’s a balance. We can’t take time off and just play with them, but we can’t exactly work.

This afternoon, I got to go to the market. Holy crap. It’s one heck of an adventure. I didn’t take my camera, as Janelle had said a few days ago that if you have a camera, the vendors will be all over you times two, since you obviously have money if you have a camera. That means, unfortunately, no pictures – but I will describe it: a huge warehouse-style building, filled half with open stalls for fruit, vegetables, grains, flours and other foods (sort of like the produce counters in a Safeway, but each vendor has a section and the aisles are very narrow), and the other half is filled halfway to the ceiling with wooden stalls with shelves stocked high with goods (shoes, cloth, souvenirs, drums, clothing, jewelry, scarves, you name it). The aisles are incredibly narrow – you can’t walk side by side because you’d knock the vendors over. It’s a clever strategy in a way because it forces you to be alone, in a sense.

Manu came with us to be our negotiator, and Igor was along too for some of it. And a good thing too, because I tried to haggle for a scarf and didn’t do too well – I ended up paying 1500 Rwf for it (which is insanely good, really, approximately $2.50 USD for something that would cost $20 at home), when I imagine Manu or Igor could have had it for 1000 or less. It was an interesting experience, with the woman going back on her offer of 1000 (if I remember correctly – she swore up and down that she never said less than 1500) and us haggling back and forth … I eventually got her to leave it at 1400, but I gave her the 1500 because in reality, it didn’t matter – what was 100 Rwf to me, compared to 100 Rwf for her?

She was a nice woman, if a bit annoying by the end, and her brother … or well, he said he was her brother, he was the vendor next to her, started eventually hitting on me (not creepy-like or anything, just putting his hand on my shoulder the way the Rwandans do, trying to convince me to buy the scarf) – I had to pull my sindi ingaragu card, which means “I’m not single,” after the woman translated for me and said that the guy was saying I was pretty and that he liked me. After saying sindi ingaragu and proclaiming that I was quite taken, she said, “Oh, you are married?” and I said, “no, but I’m very taken” and she said, “oh, you have a … boyfriend?” and I said yes. There isn’t really such thing in Rwandan culture: you don’t go out with a woman until you’re married. You’re single, or you’re married; there is no in-between. After I said that yes, I had a boyfriend, she laughed and said, “well, he [the other vendor] likes you too!” I laughed, paid for the scarf, and left.

In total from the market today, I bought 4 pagnes (not sure of the translation) of fabric (two for my dress that I’m having made, one just because I loved it, and one as a gift), one scarf (a gift), and two boxes of Rwandan tea (glee!!) – all for 12700 Rwf, or roughly $22.20 USD. In Canada, I probably would have paid almost a hundred dollars for all that - $15 for the tea, $20 for the scarf, and a good $50 or more for the fabric. I talked about this a little later with Jacqueline, saying that I felt a bit like I was ripping them off, and she said no, that really isn’t the case – you have to think about the relative price of living, and also about inflation, and so on and so forth. I felt a bit better after that – I’m not paying $2.10 USD for two boxes of tea, I’m paying 1200 Frw, and therein lies the difference. It’s a different mindset, a different need set, and I am not accustomed to either.

Supper was good tonight, although I had eyes bigger than my stomach – pasta with a light tomato and meat sauce, really good soup, a spinach dish similar to the soup, the everpresent (and ever-yummy) potatoes, and chickpeas, followed by a fruit salad for dessert (containing marakuja (passionfruit), bananas (which taste different here), and possibly tree tomatoes).

After supper, the Visionaries came by and we watched a documentary that they had helped produce in minor roles (Rodrigue did a little more, but most of the work was done by another group), talking about the role of the Rwandan youth in the genocide and in the rebuilding. One of the major messages that we took away was that it was Rwandan youth who were mobilized against their own people in large numbers due to the propaganda, and therefore they (the youth) feel that it is their duty to rebuild the country and to spread the message of the genocide, its consequences and Rwanda’s needs and new strength to the world. They have taken this responsibility upon themselves not as a burden but as a duty and as a joy. They take pride in their work and they want their country to succeed. It is inspiring, and a little shaming, to hear of their exploits.

We are leaving at 7 in the morning to go to Gisenyi tomorrow. We cannot leave later because the community work (last Saturday of every month) starts at eight, and if we are on the roads we will have to stop, get out, and help work – and not go to Gisenyi. And I want to go to Gisenyi, so devotions and bed for me.